ALEX BAKER

NOTION MAGAZINE // 04.10.16 // FASHION: JWL EXPLORES COLOUR BLOCKING AND UNIQUE SILHOUETTES FOR LFWSS17


Seoul fashion designer Jaewoo Lee serves up a minimal, proportion questioning collection with pink to shock the system.

Like a rebirth of Saint Laurent’s iconic “Le Smoking,” JWL’z short cropped jackets, paired with the high-waisted trousers, added a hard, solid, “gender free” exploration of the female silhouette to Korean designer’s latest collection. Then, as the collection evolved, lace blouses and bursts of pink and green brought out the fun elements to project some soul and personality to, at a first glance, quite a serious collection.

The classic technique of cutting up the silhouette with monochromatic, sharp lines were there but in addition, the lines didn’t just cut across the model, they went in different directions to trick the eye into making female shape have a whole new blueprint on each look.


Both the birth and the development of Lee’s designs are rooted in her understanding and appreciation of the ‘souls’ of each fabric she uses; how they differ, how they combine and compliment each other, and how the colour, texture and construction of each work together to engineer her designs.


This masculine/feminine collection also included low-cut busts in hard triangular shapes to show off the hint of the collar bone and chest, creating a simplistic elegance to the colour-blocking and square shapes which makes this collection inclusive to a variety of women and ages.


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