Bringing the Parisian streets indoors, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi presented his FW17 collection under neon signs inspired by the city’s evening glow.
At the Cité de la Mode et du Design Mattiussi’s night owls came ready made for urban living. Wrapped up against the minus degree weather outside, statement coats were prominent throughout in tones resembling the city’s lights: ranging from vibrant yellows, reds and blues to urban greys and rich browns.
A 90s theme has run through many of this season’s collections, from Dior Homme’s ravers to the baggy nu-metal boys at Palm Angels. AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi too was feeling nostalgic for the decade. Cue white Velcro trainers and black suede lace ups on model’s feet, and britpop-esque check patterns and bold primary colours reminiscent of Blur’s iconic The Best Of album artwork by Julian Opie. Speaking of which, girls and boys walked in unison: “street’s like a jungle,” indeed.
CALL OF THE WILD
Paris’ botanical gardens proved a fitting location for Yusuke Takahashi’s FW17 Issey Miyake Men’s collection, reflecting the slow reveal of woodland motifs that adorned pieces: from bold Jackson Pollock-esque paint splatterings to check tweed inspired by the forest’s natural colour palette. Grounding these prints were crinkled, deconstructed coats and suits in a palette of olive greens, rust and deep navy.
“[Combining] the ease of urban outfits, the outdoor spirit of trekking and the patterns that arise from nature’s energy,” the show notes read and this biomimicry theme continued across a more subtle print that resembled Autumnal leaves against the evening sky, giving a weathered, discolouration speckle to coats and trousers.
Structured bags in oranges, blacks, browns proved the perfect walking companion (ideal storage for a pitstop sarnie or two), whilst tricolour sneakers or more formal matte black ankle boots completed each look. Like the forest floor during fall, a cluster of textures merged beneath loose flowing nylon macs in blues and whites, ideal protection against any pesky black clouds.
Since starting his own line in the early 90s, Junya Watanabe has carved out his own place in the fashion world. Renowned for his tailoring and use of cutting edge fabrics, his ethos is strongly informed by his time training under Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, today melding a expert craftsmanship with a Japanese street sensitivity.
This season’s collection introduced a collaboration with The North Face, a brand known for its fusion of street and utility-wear. It was a clever alignment, its signatures playing well off Watanabe’s. The designer’s tailored jackets were paired with branding from The North Face, while textural details emphasised deconstructed elements of one of their duffle bags – first referenced with a model lugging a giant, army green iteration. Multi-coloured walking boots and thick soled plimsolls were topped off with flat caps (not the first time we’ve seen these this season), as well as woollen baseball hats.
As is often the case with Watanabe, the main strength of the collection – aside from its quality of tailoring – rested in the separates. All wearable and bearing a consistently urban attitude, you could see any piece being mixed and matched in an existing wardrobe – and still looking fresh.