This is the third time Raimund Berthold has presented at London Collections
Men, and the use of silhouettes in this collection are a great
representation of the theme he chose for this season.

With the intention of showing how clothing can envelope the body,
BERTHOLD mixes “the tension between covering and smothering.” The loose
tailoring portrays how we use clothing as an armour and defense
mechanism without being too complicated or particular, which relates
back to his inspiration of religious habits and uniforms worn by the
British army.

Throughout this collection you will see the  colours black and orange being used thoroughly to cast sharp and striking silhouettes of the model, yet when you look closer, some of the lines are very soft and gentle. This is a great effect that goes with
his armour inspiration, as it looks harsh on the outside, yet inside it
is soft, like the human beings trying to defend themselves in everyday
life.

I look forward to seeing how Berthold’s aesthetic develops further for next season.

Photography by Luke Hutson-Flynn